Nostalgic Confections Blog

September’s Confectionary “Points of Interest”

edorseyiv — Mon, 27 Sep 2010 16:00:16 +0000

There has been some interesting information in chocolate and confections over the last couple of weeks – if you haven’t had a chance to browse through the recent publications, I have attached the links for your convenience. There are also links below to an interesting group on linkedin.com and an informative product blog.

Chocolate – Social Responsibility for the Hershey Company
http://www.laborrights.org/stop-child-forced-labor/cocoa-campaign/resources/12395

Mapping the Chocolate Genome
http://www.gather.com/viewArticle.action?articleId=281474978525811

Google Chocolate Blog
http://www.boogaj.com/chocolate_blog/

European Food Science Network
For the confectioner technologists there is a group on www.linkedin.com that often times has good information regarding food science and ingredients.
http://www.linkedin.com/groups?mostPopular=&gid=2026152

Dark Chocolate – additional research

edorseyiv — Thu, 10 Dec 2009 00:41:30 +0000

Amazingly, there continues to be wonderful benefits in the consumption dark chocolate. Recent research demonstrates evidence of cocoa reducing the damage to DNA cells, yet another reason that cocoa trees be considered a global treasure. It is important to continue efforts to promote fair trade, encourage sustaining legacy cocoa plantations and prevent deforestation replacing the cocoa trees with rubber trees. And yes, attentions do need to shift on the issues surrounding planetary climate change.

For additional information on the research, Food Product Design has a link to the study.

Candy by Any Other Name

edorseyiv — Sat, 05 Dec 2009 16:06:06 +0000

There has been a movement to change the title of Candy Maker to Confectioner and Confectionist without truly realizing the historical impact the Candy Maker has had in this country. And it is true, Candy Maker does not have the perceived notability that comes with the titles of Chef, Barista, Patissier or even Chocolatier but it does deserve its place amongst them. The other current issue is the use of candy in Candy Maker and the negative connotation as a contributor to obesity which should be more of a conversation about lifestyle and moderation. Many would argue that it is just a name and yet it is important to realize the rich traditions and heritage that embodies the contributions of the Candy Maker. Contributions of these individuals to the larger industry has been monumental, Milton Hershey’s first endeavor as a Candy Maker was creating caramels before building his chocolate empire. The Mars brothers efforts as candy makers and onto business moguls left little doubt of the impression made on the American and global attitude toward candy and chocolate. There are also countless examples of the confectionery contributions of candy makers to companies like Joseph Schmidt, Recchuiti, Hammonds, Frans, Just Born, Scharffenberger and Enstroms as a very small sampling. It would be a national loss if this iconic figure is replaced or forgotten because of a name and may someday only be remembered in the archives at the Smithsonian.

CRAVING THE ULTIMATE MARSHMALLOW

edorseyiv — Fri, 18 Sep 2009 00:21:24 +0000

by Rhonda Williams

crav·ing (kra v ing)
n. A consuming desire; a yearning.

Noun

craving – an intense desire for some particular thing
desire – the feeling that accompanies an unsatisfied state
appetence, appetency, appetite – a feeling of craving something; “an appetite for life”; “the object of life is to satisfy as many appetencies as possible” – Granville Hicks
addiction – an abnormally strong craving

The word craving can be applied to many things, but in the world of confections it takes on an almost reverent term. When you crave a sweet it can hint of childhood memories and stir physical responses of comfort. We are surrounded by realities daily and it is nice to still have the simple joy of a favorite confection to bring a spark to our lives.

I am one of those people who adore marshmallow, chocolate, caramel and so many other sweets. However ,I must admit my ignorance until recently towards the quality of the treat. We all seem to crave sweets at different times for different reasons and if you’re like me it can usually satisfy the craving without a thought of whether the confection was made of the highest quality ingredients or not. Well my friends, I must say that in my untutored state I also regarded “quality confections” as a simple tool manufacturers used to increase the price of my favorite sweets. Although this may be said for some confection manufacturers and without sounding like a confectionery snob, I must concede that a true quality candy can rock you to the center of your soul.

For that reason I must admit my weakness for marshmallows. I know it’s not the crème de crème of the confection world, but if you have ever tasted a freshly crafted quality marshmallow you will understand that it does not at all resemble the mass produced product you see on your grocery shelf. I was introduced to this marvel of confectionery genius by Emery Dorsey IV who is a master candy maker with more than 30 years experience in the field. I have thus been educated to the potential of this lowly confection. When crafted by an artisans’ hands this simple confection can be transformed into heavenly bliss. With the additions of chocolate, caramel, coconut and any number of sweets this simple marshmallow can make your taste buds sing. I have a soft spot for this simple treat and I am sure once you have tasted the “ultimate marshmallow” you will share my sweet cravings.

Traditional Confections in the US

edorseyiv — Wed, 15 Jul 2009 18:40:07 +0000

Appreciation of hand crafted candy can be classified in the same context as an appreciation for a fine Bordeaux, a fresh cream truffle or an old world bread. It can transcend the conceptual creations of the master carpenter or executive chef and yet its simplicity can often be awe inspiring and often time humbling. In truly understanding the rich traditional history of nostalgic confections and the culturally diverse foundation that make up the fabric of these products you have to ride the time machine back to when Europeans flooded our shores and took residence all over the nation. Small confectionery shops rich in tradition, fresh in hope and abundant in creativity began taking root. These small ideas soon embodied the concepts of true candy mastery. Each small confectionery became not only the lively hood these families depended on but it was commonly their home; the candy kitchen and retail shop all under one roof. The mastery came not only from the passionate resonance that each family put into their craft it was the fact that they were embodied in what they did. This is much like the vehicle of apprenticeships that has been historically practiced amongst aspiring chefs and pastry chefs in European culinary culture.

Cities often times had multiple small sweet shops within blocks of each other, each offering their special gifts and talents in products they produced. Creativity was abundant, not only from these newly shared traditions in products that they brought to America but the in the fact that for each small confectioner the idea of uniqueness, quality, and presentation was quintessential to their survival. Hand made canes with vibrant colors were hand crooked and wrapped; cut rock was painstakingly hand blocked to create the intricate pictures within the center of each piece; hand churned creamy caramel was created in small batches; clear hand crimped hard candy ribbon became an essential part of our holiday meal; all of which became integral parts of our traditions.

Factory on Platte River Drive, Denver 1920

With the continued industrialization and automation of confections and the loss of the interest of generational family businesses we have reached the pinnacle where much of the traditional craftsmanship of our forefathers will or have faded from memory and lost in the dreams that embellished the spirit of this country. Automation and the distribution to mass markets have diluted the perception of candy, as we know this confection today. Understand that the confections that were produce and are ever present in our market place today in no means resembles the traditional products 80 years ago. Lifesavers, Tootsie -Rolls, Jolly Rancher are mainstream, commercialized and devoted to the mass market and big box stores; they are brand names integrated into the physique of American culture. What we are loosing as a culture is the very traditions that have built these candy empires. All that remain are fleeting black and white images that adorn the corporate conference rooms and possibly a piece of equipment that has been buried away in some warehouse whose use and purpose has all been forgotten. With hard candy we to have to as a culture, redefined the perception of this unique confection to more of a dime store penny candy line pushing the bottom line to ever cheaper and ever cost imperative thus pushing out the creative knowledge that contributes to the uniqueness of this confectionery art form.

There still remains just a hand full of confectionery artisans in this country that continue to work to preserve a small bit of our candy heritage. However these traditions are slowly moving out of our consciousness and it would be truly tragic if we totally buried these traditions, artistry and dreams with the individuals who brought them to us. Unfortunately what is missing is the interest, desires, commitment, passion and apprenticeships to learn and maintain this wonderful craft. There is also the lack of understanding in present day society to differentiate between cookie cutter/franchised/automated confections from the true hand crafted products that take great time and effort to locate.

There is still yet very small existing world where the candy makers are not only producing a product for the market but continues to maintain traditional confections and preserve the art of the craft.

Beta 6

edorseyiv — Mon, 29 Jun 2009 20:42:30 +0000

After more then 30 years in confectionery it is unusual to find a new product on the market that gets the creative energies flowing. It is an ingredient that not only assists in production but also can have a positive impact the overall quality of your chocolate products. Beta 6 offered by Albert Uster Imports is available for chocolate enthusiasts and professionals alike and will have a profound effect on the way you temper chocolate. This is pure cocoa butter that has been properly processed to provide the “seed” (temper) in the production of chocolates in various confectionery environments including kitchens that hand dip, enrobing lines and even provide proper temper to chocolate in a pre-conditioned process.

Tempering chocolate is not a simple process and even considered an art form. However, utilizing the tempered cocoa butter product eliminates the need for expensive tempering equipment. For the traditional at heart it can even eliminate the expedite some of the current tempering practices in confectionery kitchen. The recommended process includes melting and conditioning the chocolate down to 93 degrees, adding the Beta 6 then stir and let sit for 10 minutes, stir again then begin dipping. A more detailed method can be found at the Nostalgic Confection site www.nostalgicconfections.com and look for the method widget.